The olfactory pyramid: understanding the art of fragrance notes
by Majouri Fragrance
Perfumery is often described as an art form—a delicate blend of science and creativity. But behind every bottle lies a complex structure: the olfactory pyramid.
This essential framework in fragrance design organizes scents into three distinct levels—top notes, heart notes, and base notes—creating an evolving experience over time.
Let’s explore the secrets of the olfactory pyramid and its role in the art of perfumery.
What is the Olfactory Pyramid?
The olfactory pyramid is a model used by perfumers to structure and describe the composition of a fragrance. It is divided into three main levels:
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Top Notes: The first impressions of the fragrance.
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Heart Notes: The soul of the fragrance, defining its character.
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Base Notes: The lasting scents that form the fragrance’s true signature.
This structure allows us to understand how a fragrance evolves from the moment it’s sprayed to hours later.
Top notes: the first impression
Top notes are what you smell immediately after applying a fragrance. They are light, volatile, and often fresh. Their main role is to grab attention and leave a pleasant initial impression.
Characteristics of top notes:
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Lifespan: They evaporate within a few minutes to an hour.
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Common Families:
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Citrus (bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit, orange…)
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Aromatic (basil, mint, rosemary, thyme…)
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Light Spices (pink pepper).
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Purpose: To create an instant attraction.
Example: In Cologne Indélébile by Frédéric Malle, the citrus top notes of bergamot and lemon deliver timeless and vibrant freshness.
Heart notes: the soul of the fragrance
Once the top notes fade, the heart notes take center stage. These are the emotional core of the fragrance and often reflect its true character.
Characteristics of heart notes:
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Lifespan: They last between 2 to 6 hours.
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Common Families:
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Floral (rose, jasmine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang…)
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Fruity (peach, pear, plum…)
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Warm Spices (cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, clove…).
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Purpose: To create depth and ensure a smooth transition between the top and base notes.
Example: Delina by Parfums de Marly features heart notes of rose, lychee, and rhubarb, creating a vibrant, feminine, and addictive accord.
Base notes: the lingering trail
Base notes appear last and linger on the skin for hours, sometimes even days. They are rich, deep, and give the fragrance its longevity.
Characteristics of base notes:
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Lifespan: They can last up to 24 hours.
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Common Families:
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Woody (sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, patchouli…)
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Oriental (amber, myrrh, vanilla…)
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Musky
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Gourmand (caramel, chocolate, praline…).
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Purpose: To anchor the fragrance and give it its signature.
Example: Black Orchid by Tom Ford features base notes of patchouli, vanilla, and incense for an opulent and mysterious trail.
MAJOURI: a signature between tradition and modernity
At MAJOURI, our fragrances are built around a recognizable olfactory signature that balances luminous top notes, delicately floral heart notes, and warm, enveloping base notes.
Most of our creations open with fresh, vibrant top notes, dominated by citrus like bergamot, mandarin, or lemon. These are often enhanced by unexpected touches, such as roasted sesame in Blanc Sesame or brown sugar in Imperial Vanilla.
These captivating openings transition into sophisticated heart notes, often featuring white flowers like jasmine or orchid, sometimes accompanied by fruity or gourmand nuances, such as kiwi or white chocolate in Crazy in Love.
Finally, our creations are grounded by rich, long-lasting base notes, including noble woods (sandalwood, cedar), sensual musks, or oriental accords rich in vanilla, tonka bean, and amber. These ensure deep, memorable trails.
While many of our fragrances embrace warm bases and floral-oriental accords, some stand out for their boldness and uniqueness. Bohemian Tea, for example, highlights a vibrant, powdery green tea accord, while Gold Noir contrasts spicy cinnamon with the opulence of plum.
At MAJOURI, we create fragrances that are not only elegant and timeless but also daring and full of emotion, offering a world of olfactory exploration.
Why is the olfactory pyramid essential?
The olfactory pyramid is more than just a technical tool for perfumers—it’s also a valuable guide for consumers. It helps to decode how a fragrance evolves on the skin, revealing its different facets over time and helping identify which scents best suit specific occasions or personalities.
Like a story told in three acts, the olfactory pyramid explains a fragrance’s journey: from the fleeting charm of its top notes to the defining character of its heart notes, and finally, the lasting impression of its base notes.
For fragrance lovers, this structure is a helpful reference, showcasing dominant accords and making it easier to choose the perfect scent.
For perfumers, it’s an essential guide to balance ingredients, ensuring every composition is harmonious and complete.
How to discover the olfactory pyramid of a fragrance
To explore a fragrance’s olfactory pyramid:
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Read the descriptions:
Look at the packaging or brand websites, which often detail the top, heart, and base notes. -
Test on your skin:
Observe how the scent evolves over time—top notes appear first, followed by heart notes, and finally, the base notes settle in. -
Use specialized tools:
Platforms like Fragrantica or Parfumo offer detailed databases on fragrance compositions, allowing enthusiasts to dive deeper into their favorite scents.
By understanding the olfactory pyramid, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the art of perfumery and find a fragrance that truly resonates with your style and personality.